Sweet Peas
Sow in deep pots only if you can overwinter seedlings cool, bright and protected.
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November is more about careful preparation than rapid growth. For most northern European gardens, open-ground seed sowing has largely finished. If you have an unheated greenhouse, cold frame or bright sheltered area, a few flowers and leafy crops can still be started. Winter can also provide the cold period needed by certain perennial seeds.
The advice below covers a wide range of climates: coastal Britain and Ireland are very different from Scandinavia, the Baltics and colder inland Europe. Always prioritize soil temperature, drainage, frost risk and available light.
Shop Seeds for November SowingMatch your growing conditions to one of these approaches before opening a seed packet.
In exceptional mild spells, experiment with a few hardy annuals. These are late, higher-risk sowings—not a reliable general November recommendation.
Outdoor options →Avoid direct sowing into cold or saturated soil. Set aside spring-sowing seed and prepare sheltered growing space.
Protected options →Try sweet peas in deep pots and limited batches of cold-tolerant leafy vegetables; expect slow growth.
Winter leaves →Selected perennial seeds can spend winter in labelled, well-drained pots and germinate later.
Cold-period sowings →Prioritize these rather than treating November like September or October.
Sow in deep pots only if you can overwinter seedlings cool, bright and protected.
A late protected sowing for overwintering or early-spring leaves, not quick winter harvests.
For small baby leaves in a suitable bright greenhouse; growth can stall in dark cold periods.
A winter-chilling project with variable germination, not an immediate crop.
A patient perennial sowing; follow packet instructions for any cold pretreatment.
An optional cold-period sowing for patient growers; protect pots from excess winter wet.

Generally, wait for spring. Hardy annuals are normally autumn-sown while soil remains reasonably warm, usually September or October. November attempts are only for mild, sheltered places with free-draining soil, and establishment may be poor.
An optional experiment in unusually mild coastal gardens; otherwise save seed for spring.
Early autumn is more dependable. Late direct sowing may fail to establish before winter.
Direct sow where it will flower only if soil is still suitable; avoid waterlogged sites.
Direct sow rather than transplant, but November is late for most northern gardens.
A sheltered, well-ventilated structure may support a small number of November sowings. Bright light matters as much as protection from frost.
Sow in deep pots or root trainers. Keep seedlings cool and as bright as possible, with protection from hard freezes and saturated compost. In very cold or low-light locations, spring sowing may give more reliable results.
An optional early-start project only where you have suitable controlled light and frost protection. For most beginners, starting nearer spring is easier.
Suitable for cool conditions but very slow to establish in November darkness. Start indoors with adequate light, or wait for a brighter sowing window.
These seeds are not expected to produce usable seedlings immediately. Sow according to the variety's germination instructions, label pots and keep them protected from saturation and disturbance.
May benefit from cold, moist stratification. Germination can be irregular.
Some lavender seed lots benefit from chilling; check the variety instructions and avoid waterlogged compost.
Germination can be variable; winter temperature changes may aid some sowings.
A patient perennial project: cold conditions and good drainage matter more than speed.

November brings very little natural growth in northern Europe. These crops are possibilities for sheltered greenhouses, cold frames or sufficiently bright indoor growing areas—not promises of fast winter harvests. Established autumn crops generally perform better than new November sowings.
| Product | Where to sow | What to expect | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Organic Spinach Renegade | Cold frame or unheated greenhouse | Overwintering / spring leaves | Best choice |
| Organic Mesclun Asian Mix | Bright greenhouse or indoor setup | Young leaves if conditions permit | Protected only |
| Organic Mesclun Salad Leaves | Bright greenhouse or indoor setup | Slow baby-leaf growth | Protected only |
| Organic Rocket Esmee | Bright protected location | Limited young-leaf harvest | Conditional |
| Organic Lettuce Oakleaf 'Salad Bowl' | Greenhouse / indoors with light | Young leaves, not rapid full heads | Conditional |
| Organic Pak Choi 'Taisai' | Under cover | Small leaves, slow growth | Conditional |
| Organic Chard Fireworks | Under cover | Baby leaves, slow establishment | Conditional |
| Organic Parsley Italian Giant | Indoor pots / bright greenhouse | Slow germination; future harvest | Conditional |
| Organic Radish Cherry Belle | Bright protected bed | Slow roots; spring is more reliable | Not a priority |
Use workable, well-drained growing media and sufficient light. Consider protected sweet peas and small leafy sowings.
Check drainage, reduce watering and protect existing autumn plants; expect slower germination.
Cold-period perennial sowings remain an option, but most outdoor sowing should wait for late winter or spring.
Focus on protected sweet peas, a few slow-growing salad leaves and patient cold-period perennial projects. In cold, dark or waterlogged locations, delaying sowing until spring is usually the sounder choice.